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Saturday, 09 October 2010 21:09

Los Angeles: Beverly Soon Tofu Restaurant

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Tucked in an unknown corner with nothing but a barely readable sign even from just a short distance, Beverly Soon Tofu Restaurant serves an almost perfect soondubu (or sundubu). Not steaming but boiling. Not mild but hot. Not bland but explosive. Not to say they weren't, but the banchan and combination plates needed no additional spices at all to persuade anyone to step into this place. In fact, the place can survive on tofu soup alone on their menu. Big bold statement for big, bold flavors in a hot pot.

 

They boast not of high-end decor, chinaware, and even a big menu. This place is all about simplicity and flavor. It's an imperfect log setting just like in a cabin. They don't have leather menu covers, only a paper insert: one side in English, one side in Korean. Not glasses, but tin cups for their free barley tea. And one passes by the storage room/part kitchen to wash your hands. But leave your raised pinkies at the door, because this is comfort food at its most comforting.

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Lia Reconsal is the Los Angeles Examiner Comfort Food Out Critic and Contributor to MCCN.

Beverly Soon Tofu House on Urbanspoon

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